At that time, it was still covered with turf, and there were few archaeological materials, which belonged to the immature period of Hanfu. So skip this paragraph.

Shang dynasty:

According to textual research, the styles of tops and skirts appeared in Shang Dynasty, but the upper sleeves were shorter and the lower skirts were narrower. There was a collar at that time, which lasted until the Ming Dynasty. Formal dress was separated at that time, and the formal dress system was initially established at that time, but it was still not perfect. Tops and bottoms are the uniform styles prevailing in the whole country. To sum up, the attribute of national costume was established at that time, and the top-down dress was the first style of Hanfu system and the most primitive style in the later period.

Pants under the coat: It is said that there were pants at that time, but they were all open-crotch, and open-crotch pants could only be worn under the coat.

Hairstyle: Men braided their hair in the early stage and put it on the top of their heads in the later stage, which became the basis for men to tie their hair later (Han male hairstyle).

Crown scarf: at that time, there was already the prototype of the crown.

Western Zhou Dynasty: Crown Service System: The greatest contribution of the Western Zhou Dynasty and its influence on later generations is the perfection of the formal dress system (also known as crown service system). The Western Zhou Dynasty's formal dress system was also up and down, except that there was a crown on the head (all kinds of crowns at that time had been developed and perfected, and continued to later generations), clothes should be graded, there should be chapters, and there were knee, jade and other related dress accessories, so the perfect formal dress system continued until the Ming Dynasty. At that time, the main grade of the dress was crown dress, so it was called crown dress, depending on the style of the relevant crown dress. For example, wearing a crown is a crown, and wearing a crown is a crown. They are still under the coat, but the hat top and badge are different, and the grade of accessories is different. Coronation dress, as a kind of high-class dress, lasted until the Ming Dynasty. Only then can emperors, officials and doctors wear coronation clothes. Later, with the strengthening of centralization, only the emperor and the prince Wang could wear it. At that time, the queen had already begun to wear Zhai clothes as women's clothes. At that time, the queen had six kinds of Zhai clothes.

Petticoat: At that time, uniforms or petticoats were the mainstream and the style remained unchanged. It's just that the sleeves are getting bigger every day, forming big sleeves and eliminating styles. The clothes are getting wider and wider.

Hairstyle: At that time, most men in the Western Zhou Dynasty had braided their hair all over their heads. Except for some foreign countries, the Shang Dynasty did not have the habit of keeping long hair. However, bun has become a unified national standard, which has laid the foundation for the hairstyle of Han men for thousands of years.

Crown hat towel: the crown at that time was fully developed, and the basic crowns of later generations could be seen at that time, including magpie tail crown, Shang crown, long crown, tube crown and crown. The hat was also formed at that time.

During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period: The official dress is still a dress under the coat, and the big sleeves are only used for dresses, which has become customized. And it has become exquisite, and jade has not gone far at that time.

Pants under the coat: According to some research data, Han people had crotch pants before Khufu rode and shot, and there were also clothes with pants directly under the coat.

One-piece clothing (deep clothing): It is worth mentioning that due to the great ideological changes in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, another large-scale deep clothing of Hanfu came into being (deep clothing is actually a conjoined version of the top and bottom clothing system, which is also a collar. Due to the development of productivity, ordinary and troublesome clothes can no longer meet the needs of the people, but clothes can be made continuously and can be used in etiquette and uniforms, which is the progress of Hanfu style. Dark clothes 12 pieces, representing 12 months. There are two kinds: straight and curved. Later, as the mainstream style of deep clothes, straight purlin was used until the Ming, Spring and Autumn, Warring States and Qin and Han Dynasties, and the hem of straight purlin was narrow. Different from that, Quju declined after Wei and Jin Dynasties, but it didn't date back, because Zhu still had the style of Quju in Ming Dynasty. However, Zhi Zhi has always been popular, and later became a folk costume in Shu Ren and a home casual dress of the literati class. At the beginning of the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the sleeves of deep clothes were mostly taken off with straight tubes. Later, the hanging part of the sleeve became wider and wider, forming a semicircular vertical arc (cuff), but it was still closed (cuff), so a semicircular arc sleeve was formed for appearance (cuff), and such a sleeve became the customization of deep clothes, as long as it represented an idea. There were long sleeves at that time, but only when dancing.

Qin and Han Dynasties: Yu clothing system: The Western Han Dynasty improved the crown clothing system of the Zhou Dynasty, formed Yu clothing system, and made more than 20 kinds of dresses, court clothes and uniforms for emperors and officials. Like the Zhou Dynasty, these 20 species are basically distinguished by different crowns. Dresses and royal gowns are still made under coats, and the accessories of dresses remain unchanged, as is the case in the Eastern Han Dynasty. Therefore, it is only more hierarchical, more detailed and richer than the Zhou system. The style is basically Zhou system, and the dresses of later generations, with Zhou system as the skeleton and Qin and Han dynasties as the flesh and blood, continued until the Ming Dynasty. After that, the dress can be basically established, with little change.

Lower garment and lower garment: the folk uniforms are still lower garment and lower garment, but lower garment has gradually replaced lower garment as the mainstream, and lower garment is becoming wider than before.

Under coats and pants: Working people still wear pants directly under coats.

It is worth mentioning that in the world of deep clothes that has been flooded in the Han Dynasty, people seem to miss the clothes of the upper and lower bodies again, so women begin to wear the lower bodies again, but the tops are very short, usually reaching the waist and hips, plunging into the skirts, with narrow sleeves and wide skirts. So he belongs to the category of up and down, but later added a lot of female characteristics and some fixed. Another point is different from that under the coat. A skirt is a suit, for example, colors and patterns are not matched at will, but matched.

Robe: there were robes cut up and down in the Eastern Han Dynasty, but although they were called robes, there was still no customization in the specific length scale. At this time, there appeared a robe with two sides split (split). The difference between a robe and a robe is that the robe has a sandwich, that is, a double layer, while the robe has no crotch and is relatively thin. Then came the fourth style of Hanfu system-(robes are not counted, because robes are not well developed).

Hairstyle: Of course, the terracotta warriors and horses in the Qin Dynasty braided their hair, but in the Han Dynasty, braiding was obviously the mainstream. This simple hairstyle without braiding is also the basic hairstyle of Han men who have been in use until the Ming Dynasty. Then the bundle of hair is basically the whole hair to the top, not the shawl above the bundle of hair.

Crown scarf: Due to the establishment of the clothing system, the crown is no longer worn by anyone, and wearing a crown has become a symbol of rank. The newly-emerged crowns include the gold thread crowns of officials, the military clothes of military commanders, the plain towels of the Eastern Han Dynasty, the Guan Liang of civil servants, and the lacquered yarn crowns of military commanders, which continued until the Sui, Tang, Song and Ming Dynasties. The crown has risen to the status that only emperors wear it. Folk men can only tie up their hair and fix it with a hairpin, or wrap it in a bun with a towel. Because of this system, the Han Dynasty was also a period of mass production of hats and towels.

T-neck: In the past, the collar system only had a horizontal collar. Influenced by the northwest nationalities in Qin and Han dynasties, T-collar (pen name collar) elements began to intervene in Han costumes.

Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties: Clothing color system: Due to the formal system of Jiupin, the grades of officials were formally divided and Jiupin officials were set up, and the colors of dresses and uniforms at each level were different. Since then, the dress color system has become a standard of dress grade, and in the past, it was more distinguished by dress color than by dress color.

Tops and skirts: Because the Wei and Jin Dynasties were also a period of great ideological turmoil, people no longer liked the clothes of tops and skirts in uniforms. Due to the influence of some ideological trends, the clothes became more and more generous and elegant, and the sleeves were changed to the open Wei and Jin Dynasties.

Even the clothes (deep clothes): the deep clothes have also retreated to the literati class and the folk small dress class, and the clothes are wider than before. People seem to prefer new dresses and pleats.

Robe: It's very popular. There are already round neck robes.

Jacket and trousers (pleats): It should be said that there were clothes with shorts and trousers in the previous dynasty, but the collocation at that time was more casual and there were many kinds of trousers, which should not constitute a fixed style. However, the pleats developed at that time became the mainstream and the collocation was fixed, so it was the fifth style in the Hanfu system-under-clothing pleats. Specifically, wearing a short coat on the top and trousers on the bottom is relatively wide, trumpet-shaped and wrinkled. Sometimes a tie is made by tying it or tying it to your knees with a belt.

Upper and lower skirts: At that time, it was from the early Qin and Han Dynasties to the Wei and Jin Dynasties. Although the clothes were separated, they still retained some features of deep clothes in appearance, such as the sleeves still removed, the lower skirt was wide and the skirt waist was tall and long.

Crown hat towel: hat towel has got unprecedented development, which was basically available in later generations. Because the crown has become a symbol of rank, folk men have invented many kinds of towels and hats. For example, towels, nylon towels and so on appeared. At that time, there was a kind of lacquer sarong crown which was worn by very important courtiers.

Straight collar: At that time, based on the existing horizontal collar and round neck, the straight collar was invented through the horizontal collar.

Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties: Shangxia: Still there.

Clothing (deep clothing): at home and among the people, it is still a small dress for literati.

Robe: The popularity of robes is unprecedented and has become the mainstream clothing of the people. At that time, the official robes began to adopt round neck robes, which continued until the Ming Dynasty, that is, what we later called official robes or official uniforms.

Upper hem and lower hem: At that time, the skirt of women was shortened to the chest, widened, tied to the chest, and then tied to the long skirt, almost hanging to the ground, similar to the current Korean women's clothing. Sleeves basically turned into small sleeve, and in the later period, small sleeve hung down a part to cover his hand, which made him look slim and turned into a hanging sleeve. At the beginning, a square and thick cloak-like thing was put on the skirt, and it became a scorpion. Later, it became narrower and narrower, and only became a piece of cloth, which was fixed on the shoulder. It is worn in various ways and becomes a silk. Later, purse and silk became inseparable elements in skirts, which continued until the Ming Dynasty. From the middle Tang Dynasty to the Five Dynasties, the style returned to Wei and Jin Dynasties. The skirt is still waist to hip, the skirt is narrow and the waist is high, and the sleeves are still small sleeve.

Blue shirt; Shirts used to be robes. Because the official uniforms of men in Sui and Tang Dynasties were made of fir, but the length was only up to the knee, and there was a boundary at the knee, called the horizontal railing, which was continued with a skirt below. So although he belongs to the category of soaked shirts, he is more like a combination of soaked shirts and deep clothes in structure. So he became the sixth style in Hanfu system-blue shirt. Because the early blue shirts appeared as official uniforms, and the collars were all round necks, the later blue shirts generally followed this point, but the collars were widened and closed. The Ming dynasty was the official uniform of officials.

Straight; As mentioned above, the long clothes cut from top to bottom by the former dynasty are like robes of long clothes. However, the original dress was not customized. However, in the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the length of the robe was stipulated as ankle-length, with a top-off edge and a cross collar, and both sides could not be short of crotch (split), thus forming the seventh type of Hanfu system-straight (straight) category. At that time, the customization of straight clothes was mainly to revive ancient rituals and find the best middle point between deep clothes and robes, so the most standardized straight clothes came into being.

Coat-big sleeve coat-spinning coat-Xunzi: It was popular at that time, but the difference was that the collar was straight and the two sides split to the armpit, which felt a little half-clothed and half-worn. At that time, it was called coat. Later, women's big sleeves were also based on this. They are split to the armpits and tied with straight collars. They are called big sleeves, but the sleeves are big sleeves and the clothes are a little long. Later, in the Song Dynasty, it became narrower and longer, and the sleeves became small sleeve again. This time it was a straight collar, but it was not tied, and it became a spiral coat. In the Ming Dynasty, the sleeves will become wider and larger, and they will naturally split under the semi-straight collar (with belt). Because these series are in the same strain, there is no change in style, so they can be classified into one category and become the eighth style in the Hanfu system-collectively referred to as the sub-category. The most important feature of Xunzi is that it is tied with a straight collar and split at both sides to the armpit. At first, it was mostly used for dresses, and later it became custom-made. For example, women wear skirts, and women wear zongzi when they are engaged in folk etiquette activities. This is also the court Tang suit in the Korean period (the collar button worn by the princess in the palace in the Korean drama). However. In the Ming Dynasty, sleeveless and semi-sleeveless scorpions appeared again, which was already unisex at that time.

Half arm; At that time, there was another kind of reed, which was sleeveless and half-sleeved, mostly with a straight collar and a small belt on its chest. If calculated separately, it can be regarded as the ninth type of Hanfu system-half arm. Because it is sleeveless, it is usually worn as a coat outside the skirt. But I think he should summarize it in the book.

Crown scarf: In addition to the same crown scarf, this is an unprecedented period of hat development. For example, the earliest wingless-to the soft wing-to the hard wing-to the straight wing-to the spread wing, which later became the black hat of the Ming Dynasty and the spread wing later became the black hat of the Song Dynasty. Like hats, it was also produced at that time. Such as women's curtains, hats and so on.

Song: The costumes of the Han nationality in the Song Dynasty basically continued the costumes of the Tang Dynasty. Everything that existed in the Tang Dynasty and the previous dynasties has not changed, just a few words.

Clothing (deep clothing): at home and among the people, it is still a small dress for literati. However, compared with the previous dynasties, deep clothes became more and more active among the people and tended to be ritualized. Zhu Jiali formulated the specifications of the deep clothes, which became Zhu's deep clothes, while the sleeves of the deep clothes in the Song Dynasty were wider.

Tuck up the skirt: After the Five Dynasties returned to normal, only the skirt was tied higher than the waist, and the waist of the skirt was not fixed, directly revealing slender legs. And Ming basically continued Song Feng.

Crown hat towel: On the basis of the previous dynasty, there are several new crown hat towels. For example, many celebrities invented towels. Such as Zhu Zhu towel, broken towel, and new towel. In terms of steamed bread, steamed bread has become square, and there are new curved-winged steamed bread and flower steamed bread.

Square bend collar: Put the square bend collar on the dress.

Meta-articles: Ming articles:

Hanfu in the Ming Dynasty smacked of self-denial and devotion to duty, and it remained the same in the Tang and Song Dynasties. We have all the nine basic styles of Hanfu, the Hanfu system is completely perfect and the etiquette system is clear. It is a period when Hanfu is mature and perfect, so I just want to say a few words.

Clothing (deep clothing): deep clothing is relatively resurrected. What is basically customized is Zhu's deep clothes, which are the deep clothes of the Korean Li Dynasty. They are spacious and the sleeves have been removed. It is worth mentioning that in terms of sleeves, the sleeves of many uniforms and uniforms have risen again. As a public service, it is convenient to hide documents. It's just that this pendant is much smaller. Moreover, getting rid of flattering sleeves should still be the mainstream of all previous dynasties.

Upper and lower skirts: basically following Song Feng, only adding various decorations at the waist, such as waist skirts, curtains, gowns, short skirts, etc.

Jackets and pants: At that time, people were still wearing shorts and pants. Slightly different, by the Ming Dynasty, wearing water socks on the calves had basically replaced pleats.

Robe and shirt: the round neck robe of the product officer is slightly different. In order to widen the round neck, there should be a seam, the hem should be widened, and there should be one more piece on the left and right. This is called inserting pendulum.

Crown hat towel: Crown hat towel has not changed, only three new hat towels have been created. Such as mesh towels, square towels, and six-in-one hats.

Bi Xia: Women's clothes should be decorated with Bi Xia.

Shoes: As for shoes, they have never been mentioned before, but the shoes have remained basically the same. Simply put, there are obstacles ahead. Formal dress is a big obstacle, but formal dress is a small obstacle. Building blocks have long straight boards and slightly inclined hooks. There are clogs, sandals and boots. Women's shoes had high heels in the Northern and Southern Dynasties, and they were popular in the Ming Dynasty.

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Attachment: Some details.

One line: Generally speaking, Hanfu's lines are big, easy-going, comfortable and smooth, and its body is wide and curved. Kimono lines are relatively straight, so it looks stiff; North Korea, on the other hand, is out of proportion to the upper and lower lines, so it looks clumsy.

Second sleeve length: The standard sleeve length of Hanfu is from elbow to wrist. When cutting, leave room for the arm to bend backwards, so that the length of the sleeve does not affect when bending the arm. Crossed wrists are standard because the sleeve length should cover the hand. Kimono is short-sleeved and can't be bent. But the sleeves of Hanfu are relatively long, usually the innermost sleeves are long and narrow, and the outermost sleeves are short and wide. In this way, when you bow your head, you can fully show the level of each sleeve, and although the outer sleeve is short, the inner sleeve is long enough to cover your hands without being rude.

Three collars: the horizontal collar and the straight collar should be close to the neck, and the straight collar should be cut into a straight line. It is wrong to show shoulders on TV, probably influenced by the west. The Japanese, on the other hand, like to open their necks and show them.

Four-swing width: the skirt and hem should be wide, so that the legs can be moved apart whether sitting in a sitting position or sitting in the front seat.

Short coat: if it is a short coat, it should be narrow at the top and wide at the bottom to avoid being straight up and down when cutting, which is more convenient to move.

To sum up, this is the development, style introduction and generalization of 9 styles of Hanfu in history. I don't study archaeology, so I'm not sure whether there must be a style in a certain period, because it belongs to their academic field. I just try to simplify the text introduction to a minimum, and I will never say more unnecessary nonsense. I'll summarize what I can, that's all. But even with this concise introduction, these words still make people look very headache, so it is conceivable that writing a history of clothing full of gossip and nonsense is still a headache. But ... these words can really contain all the features and styles of the Han nationality for thousands of years! Then, it is not difficult for a careful friend to find that the nine styles of Hanfu, throughout history, only appear in the morning and evening. People's likes and dislikes have absolutely no style to make friends. He just inherits, not makes friends. These nine styles are similar in appearance, but the more difference lies in different collocation, different length of clothes and different tailoring. Just like the separation of clothes (under the coat) and the connection of clothes, only the tailoring is different, and there is no other difference at all So, where did the chaos and division of the dynasty come from? Throughout history, it is not difficult to find that there were few styles in the past, but most styles appeared in the Sui and Tang Dynasties, which is inseparable from the peak of China's cultural development. Since Sui and Tang Dynasties, people have completely inherited it. By the Ming Dynasty, these nine styles had been fully developed and perfected.

Then because the introduction of history is still a headache, I will change the way, not introduce these nine styles from a historical perspective, and it will be much simpler to list them mainly. This is what we now call the Hanfu system. After colons are their basic characteristics.

1 coat and skirt (this coat is short, probably below the knee): cross collar, both outside and inside.

2 Tuck up the skirt (this skirt reaches the chest, waist and crotch): horizontal collar (straight collar in Tang Dynasty), worn in the tuck, with silk, skirt waist and accessories.

3. Jackets and pants (pleated/water socks): lapels, including ties.

4 clothing continuous system (deep clothing): overlapping, including straight line and curve, straight line includes many customized modes.

Long skirt (straight = straight): cross collar, ankle, hem, no crotch (split) on both sides, no round neck.

Long clothes (robes, shirts): horizontal collar or round neck, ankle-length, crotch (split) on both sides, double robes and single shirt.

7-stop shirt: a skirt with a slit round neck, ankles and knees.

8 coat-big sleeve coat-spiral coat-coat: straight collar with suspenders, split at both sides to the armpit, sleeveless and half-sleeved, half covered and half worn.

Half arm: straight collar and vertical belt, sleeveless half sleeve.

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If it is further streamlined, it will be divided by cutting and pasting.

Up and down: the top half of the coat, the bottom half of the skirt, and the bottom half of the clothes and pants (pleats/water socks).

Two clothes are connected: deep clothes.

Three cuts from top to bottom: long dress (straight hem = straight body), long dress (robe, shirt), blue shirt, coat-big sleeve-spiral coat-hem, half arm.