From 20021,the cosmetics industry ushered in the strongest supervision: the basic law of the industry, the Regulations on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics, was officially implemented. In the second half of the year, more rational investment also cooled the fiery atmosphere of the beauty industry in the past few years.
But there is no doubt that China has become a huge market in the beauty industry. In this 500-600 billion yuan or even larger market, Xu Min, the CEO trained in China, the new president and CEO of Estee Lauder Group in China and the first local leader in China, appeared for the first time in the history of P&G 184.
These changes are also confirmed from the consumer side. Cindy, general manager of Tmall beauty industry, said that although mainstream brands still occupy a large part of the market, new brands are infiltrating younger people through new categories. It seems that it has become a beauty industry in the Red Sea, and new opportunities are constantly emerging because technological innovation and consumer demand are not met. In the second half of 200212002, due to the innovation of beauty preservation technology, freeze-dried mask became a new trend. Online consumption is constantly upgrading, and the unit price of customers purchased is also higher.
Domestic brands including Polaiya and Baique Ling, cutting-edge brands such as Hua, Perfect Diary and Colorkey, and popular line brands such as Nuxi Mystery, as well as luxury beauty brands such as Hermes Perfume Beauty, Givenchy and Dior Beauty are all involved. * * * The topic of discussion is, where will the beauty brands go in 2022?
What are the opportunities in the beauty industry?
In September, 20021year, perfume, men's wear, pets and tide play were separated from the original industry and became independent categories of Tmall. In fact, the rising trend of these categories is by no means a grass ash snake, which has long been obvious.
In the past, consumers who only knew the perfume of major duty-free shops such as Chanel and Burberry sent the perfume brands that were originally regarded as "niche" such as Zumalong, Mei Sen Magira, Diptyque, Pan Hailigen and BYREDO to Tmall Million Club on 202 1. Fauvism and Bing Xili, who started online, are both China players who have sold over 10 million.
This not only reflects the change of salon perfume or niche perfume entering the field of vision of mass consumers, but also domestic perfume players are attracted by this 10 billion-level track and have entered the game. In addition to the smell stores that were born earlier and have been stationed in many shopping malls, Scentooze Bunny, born on 20 19, entered the offline beauty collection stores such as Xiyan, while Guanxia and Wenxian opened flagship stores that pay more attention to experience in Hunan Road and Huaihai Middle Road in Shanghai respectively.
* Left: Wenxian flagship store in Huaihai Middle Road, Shanghai; Right: Summer Sightseeing and Leisure Hall on Hunan Road, Shanghai.
In addition, cosmetics group Galand has launched its first perfume brand ASSASSINA Sahina, and ByteDance's own perfume brand Emotif will be listed soon. Service providers who set foot in e-commerce business earlier are also introducing foreign perfume brands unfamiliar to Chinese people through agency operation. Youke Group is the trader behind Creed Tmall International Store, which is known as the "British Royal Perfume Brand". Shuiyang also operates the overseas flagship store of French luxury perfume MEMOPARIS.
Scenes of perfume fragrance are also being broadened. Bedroom fragrance, space fragrance, car fragrance, bathroom fragrance, etc. According to different scenes, and combined with users and uses, clothing fragrance and sleep-helping fragrance are also occupying consumers' sense of smell.
In addition to fragrance, Cindy predicts that in 2022, men's beauty care instruments will also become the trend category of makeup and skin care.
Cindy, General Manager of Tmall Beauty Industry
She found that boys also began to "please themselves". "Originally, boys bought perfume, which was probably for girls, but from June18, 2020, the proportion of boys buying perfume by themselves was higher."
In the Tmall flagship store of men's skin care brand Li Ran and her dear boyfriend, perfume has always been one of the highest-selling categories in the store; The proportion of male and female users of the domestic fragrance brand "Beast Youth" reached 4: 6.
Besides, these new brands seem to know very well what kind of "masculinity" China men want. Men want to hide their flaws, but they can't be seen wearing makeup; They are troublesome and afraid of being greasy. They hope that they can apply the foundation evenly without beauty eggs, and they are even more reluctant to make great efforts to remove makeup. Their psychological barriers even affected their acceptance of foundation and BB cream-these categories were once dominated by women. Therefore, JACB, Liran and other brands have launched their own men's creams, mainly to solve the troublesome problems that boys need to pay attention to.
Su Yan Cream, a new brand specially designed for men, has caught the demand of boys who are "picky and troublesome".
Although Neil Chapman, the godfather of perfume, said in the perfume Bible, most minority perfume manufacturers are designed for individuals, regardless of gender. However, at present, those domestic perfume or skin care brands specially designed for men still need to promote "men's perfume" or "men's skin care brand" to show their identity as new consumer goods, which is different from previous brands.
The bonus of beauty and body instruments appeared after consumers were educated by beauty brands for many years. This high-end, more professional category is faced with a group of "technology flow" who have higher requirements for skin care and are more willing to accept new ideas, or consumers who are still in the wait-and-see period for medical beauty and temporarily transition to home beauty instruments.
But in the past, this high-end skin care market monopolized by foreign brands began to be gradually opened by domestic brands. Yan Ting, a new brand established less than three years ago, has opened up a young market with home theater-level skin care products and instruments. Last year, it was double 1 1, and the elite category ranked in the TOP20 of Tmall.
On Tmall, there are many cutting-edge domestic brands like Yan Ting. Based on the insight into the domestic consumption ecology, we should dig deep into the demand scenarios of users and realize overtaking in corners. The most important thing is that it has changed the way that many domestic brands "change big brands" in the past, but directly cut into the field of instruments that emphasize assets and research and development.
In the highly competitive cosmetics industry, there are still quite a few unmet needs. "The greater the difference in user needs, the more difficult it is to form a monopoly," Joo Sang wook said.
Where should the brand go after 0 to 1, 1 to 10?
In the past few years, many new beauty brands in China have achieved the unification of users, needs, scenes and pricing, and achieved a certain business volume by relying on several explosive products. However, explosive products are only a means of short-term brand growth or being seen, and have their own life cycle. And brands need to rely on more goods, even more product lines or brands to maintain the growth rate of sustainable development.
Therefore, the question before many brands is, "Should I open up a new product line or recreate a new brand?"
Joo Sang wook, a partner of Lin Zhong Capital, believes that there is no standard answer to this question. "Don't be a second brand until you make a brand from 0 1 and a brand from 1. Because of an entrepreneurial project, resources and energy are limited. "
But the direction that brands can consider is to find their own skills development points. Beauty cosmetics and muji seem to have no explosions in various fields, but they are taking a large and complete "all-category road": beauty cosmetics have penetrated almost all small white household appliances and become the top spot in many categories, making themselves an industry expert; Muji, on the other hand, covers home textiles, stationery, clothing and other categories and has become a representative of a lifestyle. It's just that their category expansion direction has extremely high requirements for brands, which is "impossible to meet".
Learning from Dyson and Yunnan Baiyao is more suitable for new brands with obvious shortcomings: Dyson has a thorough study of "wind", from air purifiers, electric fans to hair dryers, which are in line with consumers' cognition of their professional skills; From trauma drugs to toothpaste, Yunnan Baiyao has never left the professional field of "anti-inflammatory and detumescence".
Ma Yinglong, a cross-border beauty transformation.
Fan, director of E-commerce operation of Newsfans, said that those brands seeking a breakthrough at the stage of 10- 100 need to launch product line matrices such as image model, drainage model, profit space and trend model suitable for brand tonality. At the same time, we should pay attention to the construction of old customers' flow pool and members' repurchase marketing, as well as the construction and application of enterprise data center. From product research and development to listing promotion, from joining new customers to repurchasing old customers, it is all data-driven, so don't pat your head.
How to rejuvenate domestic brands?
In recent years, in the confident social thoughts of big countries, the "national tide" that began to churn on 20 16 has not subsided, but has extended from the concept of fashion clothes to consumer goods.
A number of domestic brands such as Baiqueling, herborist and Lin Qingxuan have also become popular in the national tide. These brands that used to rely more on offline traditional business have short contact time and are far away from young consumers.
However, the director of Tmall Beauty's domestic product line also said that after the double 1 1 last year, several important changes have taken place in the consumer groups of domestic brands:
1, young consumers of domestic brands account for more than 52%. Compared with the previous big promotion, domestic consumers began to be younger.
2. Consumers of domestic brands have moved from the original third-and fourth-tier cities to first-and second-tier cities, which means that domestic brands have a better brand image among major beauty groups.
3. Compared with the past, domestic consumers are more "senior" beauty buyers, indicating that consumers recognize the quality of domestic brands more.
Seize the old domestic products of new channels and new people.
When domestic beauty brands enter consumers' minds with more professional brand image and product quality, they should do their own product innovation and "do things that can't be done", Joo Sang wook said. For the excavation of China culture, it is not only necessary to show that "it is not to carve dragons and phoenixes on packaging, but to be more suitable for China people's aesthetics in product aesthetics, material expression and even scenes."
The most important point is the digital process of the brand. Even though "digital transformation" has been mentioned for many years, international brands are still in a relatively leading position. Few domestic brands will systematically manage marketing materials, efficiency tools and delivery tools.
On the same day, in June of 20021year, when Cat proposed to become a D2C platform, it also threw out a "two-wheel drive" methodology that the brand should focus on consumer operation and commodity operation. Beauty industry is a typical consumer-driven industry. It attaches importance to accurate insight into consumer demand, and also needs to tap those potential trends. At the moment when multi-platform operation has become the norm, a beauty brand will simultaneously open stores in online and offline channels such as Tmall, Applet and JD.COM, and will also plant grass in Xiaohongshu, Weibo and Tik Tok. How to make a potential user who is not familiar with his own products become his own consumer and member, and keep buying again is the proposition of all brands.
"The combination of data and marketing is the core growth point of new content planting grass. Optimizing the complete link of nickname creation, scene content production, high-value talent cooperation and amoy linkage through data insight will greatly improve the efficiency of new content planting grass. " Olivia, deputy general manager of Qingqu Digital Intelligence, said.
Especially those big brands that have reached a considerable scale attach great importance to the consistency of consumer experience in all channels. However, a consumer's "whereabouts" are uncertain: they may try to place an order while shopping online and complete the repurchase on Tmall. The offline BAs often tells consumers how to use points, thus constantly stimulating consumers to buy and save points. If consumers are faced with a set of membership points system that has not yet been opened, they are likely to lose their loyalty to the brand, and the brand will also lose the opportunity to increase the customer unit price. Therefore, service providers who do brand transactions should not only open up the membership system, but also make online customer service "become" the role of offline BA, so that consumers can get more consistent services online and offline.
In the process of realizing these methodologies, we need the support of digital operation tools. And these infrastructure and capacity building are not the brand itself can complete. During this period, in addition to the infrastructure provided by the platform, many brands have chosen service providers with mature brand trading experience and more e-commerce operation capabilities to help.
Now, both the founders of new brands and traders of domestic brands know the value of "brand": when consumers face a known brand, the decision-making chain will be shorter and the time will be less. The premium and gross profit brought by the brand can help the brand force the supply chain to continue to supply, provide better products for consumers and extend the life cycle of the brand. However, on the way to becoming an evergreen brand, it is always a compulsory course for the brand to fill in the shortcomings, consolidate the cultivation of the long board and the methodology of digital management.