For thousands of years, everything in Wenchang has been quietly changing. The only thing that remains unchanged may be those ancient buildings that have stood for a hundred years. They hid behind high-rise buildings and smiled indifferently.
Before becoming Wenchang, this place filled with salty and humid sea breeze had changed its name several times. It was originally the territory of South Vietnam. In the summer of 1 12 BC, Liu Che, the seventh emperor of the Han Dynasty, launched a war against South Vietnam after weighing for several years. Only two years later, Wenchang, together with the whole island, was captured by the Dahan Dynasty, so after defeating the northernmost Xiongnu, Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty pushed the southern border of the empire across the river to Hainan, expanding the territory of the empire in an unprecedented way. According to historical records, Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty was very happy to win the "Big State" and divided the whole island into two counties, Zhu Ya and Boer.
Wenchang belongs to Zhu Ya and was named Zibei by Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty. No one knows why the emperor who spent his whole life on land gave Wenchang such a name full of marine customs, but in any case, Wenchang was finally established in the name of Zibei and entered history. But after all, the empire was unable to take care of this remote land. Only 64 years later, that is, in the third year of Yuan Dynasty (the first 46 years), Zhu Ya County was revoked and Zibei became an abandoned county.
Time is like water, never looking back. When Han Fu became an ancient rhyme, the characters of the Three Kingdoms were turned into dust by history, followed by the clothes of the Jin Dynasty and the gorgeous elegance of the Six Dynasties. Six hundred years passed so faintly. It was only in the Sui Dynasty that the island was remembered again-in the third year of the Great Cause of Sui Dynasty (607), Wenchang was reborn in the ancient site of Zibei County and was given a new name "Wude".
Later, the Sui Dynasty was destroyed by the Tang Dynasty, and the high-impedance Li Yuan established the title of "Wude". Due to the conflict between Wenchang name and year number, "Wude changed its name to Pyeongchang, which belongs to Yazhou County". Twenty years after it was named "Pyeongchang", Wenchang was renamed again. In the first year of Zhenguan (AD 627), Emperor Taizong renamed Pingchang County Wenchang County. "Wenchang" originated from "Yanwu Xiuwen", and Emperor Taizong changed his name to Wenchang in order to educate this place outside Hainan Island and China. Wenchang finally entered the orbit set by fate. Since then, although the state and county to which it belongs have changed, the specific jurisdiction has also changed, but the name of Wenchang has never changed-1400 years has been "Wenchang".
People believe that people's names imply their fate, and so do city names. Since becoming "Wenchang", Wenchang has really "revised the text". The Confucius Temple in Wenchang, built in the Northern Song Dynasty and the Qing Dynasty (A.D. 1042), is a witness to Wenchang's elegance and prosperity. Since Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty respected Confucianism alone and Confucianism became a prominent school, the wind of building and expanding Confucian temples has also risen. There are more than 2000 Confucius temples in history, which can be divided into three types according to the different reasons for construction. One is the Confucius Temple, which was used by the relatives of Confucius. The other is the national temple, which is a special temple dedicated to Confucius by the state; The third is Gong Xue Temple, which is dedicated to Confucius and is also a place for students to study. Wenchang Confucius Temple is a learning temple, the original building of Wenchang Gong Xue, and later became the cultural center of Wenchang. Later, Wenchang won the reputation of "three scholars in one mile", and its root was the aura of words and ink injected into this land by Confucius Temple.
Wenchang Confucius Temple was first built in Tambu Village, Hegongdu, Anzhi Township (now south of Xialu Bridge in Wenchang East Road Town). It is surrounded by beautiful scenery. The Pingchang River, which originated in Qiongshan Mountain, flows quietly outside the Confucius Temple, flows through Xialu West and Tengqiao West, and flows into Bamen Bay in Baofang. Naturally, such a treasure cannot be enjoyed exclusively by the Confucius Temple-this is also the jurisdiction of Wenchang County. Two hundred and eighty-nine years later, in the second year of Yuan Shunzhi, Wenchang County moved to Beishandu, Fenghua Township, and the Confucius Temple also moved away. At this time, Wenchang had a tradition of attaching importance to education, and Yuan people respected "power", which was different from Han people. After discussion, Wenchang scholars decided to temporarily locate the Confucius Temple on the right side of the county government.
After the Yuan Dynasty, Ming Xing was destroyed and Han orthodoxy returned. In order to show the importance of cultural education, the successor of Wenchang magistrate spared no effort to move the Confucian Temple, a sacred place in the hearts of literati, to the left of the county seat. Since the Ming Dynasty, in addition to county studies and Wenchang Academy, social studies and voluntary studies have also developed, and Gong Xue has also been expanding. For hundreds of years, the Confucius Temple in Wenchang has been relocated, rebuilt, renovated and repaired for more than ten times, and finally it has become a huge building complex of more than 10,000 square meters: Wenchang Palace, Minglun Hall, Zunjing Pavilion and Weiwen Academy were built in the Qing Dynasty, and the library of the Republic of China was built in the Republic of China.
Even among thousands of Confucius Temple, Wenchang Confucius Temple is very unique: it is the only Confucius Temple in China that does not open its south gate. At that time, the imperial examination was the only way for literati to be promoted, and the word "No.1 scholar" was also the highest pursuit of middle school students in Confucius Temple. The ancient Wenchang people who built the Confucius Temple promised that "the Confucius Temple would not open until it won the top prize", which was both a wish and an encouragement. So far, it is impossible to verify whether Wenchang won the first prize, but the Confucius Temple has not yet opened, leaving only a left and right side door.
Outside the side door with the word "Ritual Gate", there stands an ancient stone tablet engraved with the words "All officials of civil and military forces dismount here", which is also the traditional building of all Confucius temples. At the main entrance, there is a circular sculpture "Longmen" passing through the wall. The top is two floors, covered with glazed tiles, and the four corners are decorated with the eaves of the Ming and Qing palaces. The end is more tapering, rolled up and finally shrunk inside, like the tail of a squid.
The whole building complex of Wenchang Confucius Temple is symmetrical from east to west. The main buildings in the vestibule are Lingxingmen, Chi Pan, Zhuangyuan Bridge and Confucius Statue, while Dachengmen and Dachengdian are located in the backyard. There is an ancient well called "Shengquan" next to the Star Gate. It is said that since its completion, the spring water in the well has been shining and never dried up. The spring water is very clear. Hundreds of years ago, students in Gong Xue used well water to quench their thirst. Hundreds of years later, Wenchang residents can still drink spring water directly.
Dacheng Hall in the backyard is a frame-type wooden structure with nine ridges on the roof and mottled column walls. The outer wall of the hall is decorated with Wenchang typical murals. The history of Wenchang murals is only over 200 years, and most of them appear among the people. Dacheng Hall is decorated with murals, not only out of respect for Confucius, but also because Wenchang people are eager to turn Confucius into Wenchang's own, which makes Dacheng Hall more obvious. Wenchang flavor.
Since the Song Dynasty, Han people have moved to Wenchang. After Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties, a gathering place of Han nationality without Li nationality was finally opened in Hainan where Li nationality gathered. The history of the 18th Line Village in Wenchang can be traced back to the Ming Dynasty. The first group of residents are Fujian people from the same coastal area. Thanks to Wenchang's cultural and educational tradition, many students in Shibaxiang Village in the Ming and Qing Dynasties embarked on their careers through the imperial examinations. Of course, good stones and wood should be used to build new homes. Therefore, after the ancient residents in other places were pushed down, they were rebuilt one after another. Eighteen-line village can still maintain its appearance a hundred years ago, and floods and typhoons can't change it.
The name of "Eighteen Lines Village" comes from eighteen rows of houses in the village. Looking down from the air, you can see that the whole ancient village is arranged in a fan shape. All courtyards have a unified orientation and the structure is roughly the same. They are all blue bricks and tiles, with high walls and deep courtyards, and even the radian of cornices in the corner is the same. The houses in the whole ancient village are divided into 18 groups, each group of houses is connected in a straight line, and each group of houses is separated by stone alleys with the same width.
Different from today's urban structure planning, the special pattern of Shibaxiang Village began by accident. At the beginning of the construction of Shibaxiang Village, only a row of old houses were built by the ancestors. With the continuation of blood, Shibaxiang Village has become a big family with prosperous children and grandchildren, and it has to start expanding or building new houses. In order to live as close as possible, the villagers on the 18th Line clung to the old house and rebuilt the new house according to the structure of the old house. After several generations, the village has become today's eighteen-line pattern.
There are two mounted stones and a pair of drum-hugging stones at the entrance of Shibaxiang village. Shangmashi is stepped, with serious erosion at the top, but the Xiangyun pattern on the side is still clearly visible. The drum-holding stone drum seat is symmetrical and wavy, and the center of the wavy shape is a horizontal stone drum. Also placed at the entrance of the village, there is a lotus-shaped stone water tank one meter high. So people did not enter the ancient village, and the ancient literati "spring breeze is proud of horseshoe disease" and the grand occasion of wearing brocade and red came on.
Really entering the 18th Line Village is more like falling into the gap of time. From the moment we stepped in, the color world turned into gray photos, and the familiar modern city was no longer replaced by the ancient houses built in the Ming and Qing Dynasties: Eighteen Lines Village, which is a living ancient city site. Entering the village is like walking between ancient city walls, stepping on the flagstones trodden by ancient houses in Hainan. The frequently photographed moss-worn walls also bear the eyes of the ancient people in Hainan hundreds of years ago.
Almost all the roofs of ancient houses are decorated with colored tiles, and simple and colorful stone carvings are fixed at the top and tail of the roof. These sculptures, located at the highest point of the ancient house, bear the impact of wind and rain directly. They accompanied each other and witnessed countless sunrises and sunsets with the coconut groves swaying in the sea breeze. Unfortunately, no matter whether it is painted tiles or carved flowers, the colors have all disappeared in time, unified into gray-black, and even climbed up the mildew spot. The gate of the quadrangle is still red in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, and the unused parts of the exquisite bronze door ring are all green embroidery.
Linjiazhai, the oldest house in Shibaxiang Village, also known as Jiumu Hall, was built in Jiajing period of Ming Dynasty. According to research, the name of "Jiumu Hall" began in the Tang Dynasty. Lin Pi, the grandson of Lu Lin footballer, the ancestor of Lin Min, has nine sons, all of whom live in the official department (also known as Zhou Mu), so Zhi Lin takes Jiumu Hall as his Tang name. After the descendants of Lin were dispersed, buildings of "Jiumu Hall" or "Jiumu Family" appeared one after another all over the country-the ancestors of Shibaxiang Village were descendants of Lin.
Jiumu Hall sits south to north. When it was first built, the material was very heavy, so it can resist the erosion of wet sea breeze and stand still today. Over the past 400 years, despite numerous minor repairs, the basic framework and layout of Jiumu Hall have remained the original pattern. However, years have left traces in this old house after all. The wooden pillars supporting the beam frame are no longer smooth, and the stone pillars under the wooden pillars also leave heavy moss traces. Perhaps the only constant is the floor inside the house. These floors with numerous honeycomb holes are made of the ocean. Snails and coral reefs are collected from the sea, burnt into powder from Hainan rosewood, and then made into floors by special methods, which can remain unchanged for a hundred years and be as firm and flat as ever.
Wenchang people went to Nanyang from the end of the Song Dynasty to the beginning of the Yuan Dynasty, and the number of people going abroad reached 1 000. The so-called Nanyang actually refers to Southeast Asia. In the Qing Dynasty, the coastal area south of Jiangsu was also called "Nanyang". Western learning spread to the east in the late Qing dynasty, and the imperial examination was not popular, both for making a living and for studying. Nanyang-style dwellings in Wenchang reached its peak after the founding of the People's Republic of China and began to fade. However, the feedback from Nanyang folk houses also left a deep trace in Wenchang folk houses.
There are many arcades in Wenchang, but there are only two well-preserved arcades, namely Wennan Street and Qianpu Street. The arcade is a veranda building with two floors of corridors. This structure can not only protect the arcade from wind and rain, but also be used for shading, which is very popular in Southeast Asia with hot and humid climate. Overseas Chinese returned from Nanyang and felt that Wenchang's climate was similar to that of Southeast Asia. After Nanyang, they began to build this practical building. All the arcades in Wenchang were built by overseas Chinese, which is the witness of overseas Chinese returning home in rags. Therefore, Wenchang arcade is also known as "half of the history of overseas Chinese in Wenchang".
In addition to the arcade with pure Nanyang style, there are many buildings in Wenchang that combine Nanyang style with traditional houses in China, and Fujiazhai is one of them. Fujiazhai was built in 19 15, which took three years to complete. It is a three-story arcade-style compound, hidden deep under the pine trees in the first courtyard of Wencheng Town, Wenchang City, Hainan Province. Because of the dense pine trees outside the house, it is also called "Songwu".
The appearance of the mansion is a typical Nanyang-style layered and transparent arch coupon. The deepest part can be seen at a glance from the outside, which is different from the traditional winding path in China, but the lush trees all over the mansion still make people feel like they are in the mountains. The load-bearing column is square, with a slightly wider bottom and obvious splicing marks. Over the past hundred years, the fine patterns on the arch coupons have been corroded into gray-black and difficult to distinguish. The roof did not follow the traditional cornices in China, but was replaced by a semi-arc shape.
The arcade elements are mainly reflected in the corridor. Arch coupons run through the whole building, and the outer edges of the buildings on both sides are prominent and vertically connected, forming a corridor for shelter from wind, rain and sun. Standing outside, it seems that the whole Fu family mansion is composed of two groups of arcades. There are also a number of round windows in the house. There are arc elements in the round windows, side doors and arch coupons, which are nested layer by layer, presenting the visual effect of setting the scene in the scene. This is also the proof that Fu Jia Mansion has brought arc decorative elements and arch coupons into full play.
Corresponding to the architecture of Nanyang style, the details of the mansion are full of traditional aesthetic feeling. The fence between the horizontal roof and the courtyard is decorated with through carvings, and the patterns of through carvings are all repeated traditional patterns: copper coins, bats, peaches and so on. The roof and the side building are also decorated with carvings, supplemented by paintings, but they are all covered with thick moss.
Since the 1950s and 1960s, the descendants of the Fu family who lived in Wenchang have died one after another, and the Fu family mansion has gradually fallen into disrepair due to neglect. However, after a century of wind and rain polishing and more than 50 years of idleness, the skeleton of Fu Jia Mansion is still there, and it is still regarded as the masterpiece of overseas Chinese architecture in Wenchang. Together with the arcade old street, it welcomed a group of tourists who followed the legend, showing the glory of overseas Chinese in Wenchang for a hundred years.