The research on the physiological and hygienic function of clothing stems from people's demand for cold protection and hygiene. Clothing has an important influence on human health. This idea of clothing hygiene originated from the skin breathing theory of ancient Greek philosopher empedocles. /kloc-in the 0/9th century, natural science and medicine flourished. Professor Pettenkofer, the originator of hygiene, gave a lecture on experimental hygiene at Munich University and began to study the important role of clothing in environmental hygiene. 189 1 Rubner, former director of Berlin research institute, published his own research results on the basis of predecessors and established the foundation of clothing hygiene. He studied the warmth retention of clothing from the aspects of fiber characteristics and fabric structure, introduced physiological research methods such as skin temperature, clothing temperature and metabolism into experiments, and pointed out the harm of excessive and thick clothing.
Although human beings knew how to dress and cover their bodies hundreds of thousands of years ago, it was only half a century before they could really understand the principle of clothing heat insulation and cold protection and establish a unique discipline of clothing hygiene. In World War II, all countries participating in the war were threatened by the severe cold climate, and the total number of frostbite (including frostbite) exceeded 6.5438+0 million, which led to the decline of soldiers' combat effectiveness. Soldiers who participated in the war experienced extreme low temperature and high temperature, trains, ships, planes and other harsh environments that they had never experienced before, which made people further realize the important role of clothing. Therefore, all countries have carried out the research on people and environment, clothing and equipment, especially the research on damp-heat physiology in the United States and the research on clothing climate in Japan, which has become the basic content of clothing hygiene today.
1939, Henry first proposed and analyzed the heat and moisture transfer performance of textile fibers. 1940, climatologist and physiologist P.Siple published the article "Principles of clothing selection in cold climate", which expounded the principles of cold-proof and heat-insulation of clothing from the perspective of physiology and climatology, and put forward the principles of cold-proof and warm-keeping of clothing, which played an important guiding role in the selection and design of clothing. 194 1 year, Gagge, Burtor and Bazett put forward the clothing thermal insulation index, namely clo, which is related to human physiological parameters, psychological feelings and environmental conditions. 1946, Peirce and Ress put forward the thermal resistance unit Tog to measure the thermal insulation performance of fabric or fabric layer. 1949 published the first monograph on clothing hygiene, thermoregulation physiology and clothing science in Britain, and 1959 published People in Cold Environment. These two books are also the basic teaching materials of clothing hygiene.
Since 1960s, with the wide application of synthetic fibers, people pay more and more attention to the wearing comfort of clothing. The sultry feeling brought by the use of conventional synthetic fiber products promotes the research on moisture and heat conduction of clothing. In 1962, A.H.Woodcock put forward the moisture permeability index (im) of clothing, which is an index of comprehensive heat and moisture transfer characteristics. In 1960s, Professor R.F.Coldmen, a famous American clothing physiologist, combined the thermal resistance and moisture permeability index of clothing, and further put forward the evaporative heat dissipation efficiency index of clothing, and suggested that the thermal resistance, moisture permeability index and evaporative heat dissipation efficiency index should be taken as the physical indicators of clothing thermal and wet comfort, so as to formulate dress standards (including comfort standards and tolerance standards) under different climatic conditions and guess the cold and heat tolerance limit of clothing discomfort. At the end of 1960s, Professor Gege of Danish University of Science and Technology established thermal comfort equation, comfort map and seven-point scale system, taking into account six factors, such as human body, clothing and environment. 1970, Ford (L. Fourier) and Chris (N.R.S.Hollies) published Clothing-Comfort and Function in new york, 1975, R.F.Coldmen and Chris (N. R. s. hollies).
Since the late 1970s, the research on heat and moisture transfer performance and thermal and moisture comfort of clothing has become increasingly active. In addition to physiological methods, human body wearing experiments and instrument simulation experiments, a lot of research has been done on thermal and wet comfort, cold and warm feeling and wet feeling, and a lot of research has been done on heat and moisture transfer by mathematical and physical methods, and the complex heat and moisture exchange process among people, clothes and the environment has been accurately calculated by computer simulation technology. In 1980s, the method of damp-heat physiology, which clarified the mechanism of human body regulating heat and humidity, began to be applied in the field of clothing research, and the progress of artificial climate chamber research promoted the development of clothing hygiene.
The study of fabric style begins with the functional test of wool quality of 1926 and the study of mechanical properties of 1930 fabric. In the heat and moisture transfer performance test, Ress began to use thermal protection flat instruments in 194 1 year. In the 1940s and 1950s, American and Canadian armies began to develop thermal manikins. In 1950s, M.E.Whenlan and others measured the evaporation resistance of air layer and clothes to water vapor by water cup method. At the end of 1960s, the United States, Britain, Japan, Germany and other countries developed a variety of warm-sweat dummies to simulate the heat and moisture state of human body (even including the movement state) and used for the heat and moisture transfer test of clothing materials. In the early 1970s, J.H.Mecheels, Takaji Harada and others developed skin simulators or microclimate simulators which are more suitable for the study of material properties, and gradually formed the experimental method standards.
After the Second World War, with the reform of the university system and the rapid development of the global textile and garment industry, foreign domestic and living environment universities, especially clothing disciplines, have set up clothing hygiene courses in succession, and many researchers have appeared in the field of clothing science. In recent years, people constantly pursue the functionality, comfort and safety of clothing materials, which requires the assistance of physiology, hygiene, meteorology, physics, fiber engineering, environmental engineering and other disciplines.
Domestic research on clothing hygiene began in the 1960s. In the mid-1960s, the Military Equipment Research Institute of the General Logistics Department of China People's Liberation Army began to design and study segmented thermal manikin, which was used to comprehensively test the thermal resistance of clothing. The project was completed in 1980. 1978, Shanghai Textile Research Institute developed an elliptical tube heat preservation instrument. Since 1980s, China Textile University and Northwest Institute of Textile Technology have carried out extensive research. 65438-0980, Xia Zhengxing studied the radiation protection performance of vacuum coated textiles. In 1982, Chen Qiushui discussed the moisture permeability of fabric and its testing method. The evaluation index "moisture permeability index C" reflecting moisture permeability was put forward, and Wang Qinghua and others studied the relationship between air layer thickness and thermal resistance in microclimate area. From 65438 to 0984, Rao Mu and Li Yi developed a fabric climatologist, and put forward an evaluation index that comprehensively reflected the heat and moisture transfer performance of fabrics, such as "equivalent thermal resistance". This paper discusses the relationship between fabric parameters and heat and moisture transfer performance, and the heat and moisture transfer performance of fabrics with different directions of heat flow and moisture flow, which provides theoretical basis and experimental data for the General Logistics Department of PLA to adopt the thermal insulation standard for military uniforms in 1985. During the period of 1986, Wang Yunxiang, Zhao Shu economist and others developed a fabric heat transfer testing device to dynamically test the heat and moisture transfer of fabrics. 1987, Rao Mu and Shi Meiwu developed a fabric microclimate instrument II. Yu Fenghua regards clothing materials as porous bodies, and systematically discusses the theories of heat conduction, convection, fluid diffusion, capillary flow, evaporation and condensation. Zhang Weiyuan discussed the moisture permeability mechanism of fabric. From 65438 to 0988, Rao Mu and Wang Xiaodong developed a fabric thermometer. From 65438 to 0989, Yu and Zhao further studied the dynamic characteristics of heat and moisture transfer, and discussed the influence of fiber arrangement direction and porosity on thermal resistance. Gong Wenzhong developed a tester for moisture transfer and dynamic heat and moisture transfer of fabric, and discussed the relationship between fabric and its heat and moisture transfer performance. 199/kloc-0 Qiu guanxiong and others developed a tester for thermal and moisture properties of fabrics. 1992 feng enxin and others discussed the thermal insulation effect of space cotton thermal insulation flocs. In 1995, Chen Dongsheng et al. gave a mathematical description of the moisture permeability process of fabric with the grey equation. 1999, the first military university in China was announced, and the relationship between clothing, people and environment will be further studied from the perspective of military supplies. In the same year, Chen Yuhong and others published the article "Research on Micro-climate Measurement System in Clothing", which provided an advanced test method for scientifically evaluating the climate in clothing.
In a word, the research on fabric and clothing comfort is very active at home and abroad, and great progress has been made in related testing methods, testing instruments and evaluation indicators. However, because textiles are aggregates composed of fibers, air and water, the structure of fiber aggregates is varied, and the internal structure of textile fibers is varied and anisotropic, so the proportion of conduction convection and radiation heat transfer in the process of sensible heat transfer varies with the environmental conditions of textile structures, and the process of water transfer is accompanied by latent heat transfer and phase change; Because of the cross effect of heat and moisture transfer at the same time and the surface effect caused by the huge specific surface area of fiber aggregate, it also brings difficulties to the study of heat and moisture transfer in textiles.
At present, most foreign universities related to clothing have set up clothing hygiene courses, and clothing hygiene has formed a relatively complete system abroad. Clothing education in China started late. In order to establish a complete clothing science and clothing education system, it is urgent to develop and improve the curriculum system of clothing hygiene in China.