This also represents many designers' evaluation of their long-term tacit cooperation with printmakers. Usually, the divergent thinking of designers is imaginative, while the strong logical thinking of printmakers is rigorous and conservative. Only by combining the two can we design a good product. Designers also need the advice of printmakers to improve their works. After interviewing some designers and printmakers, I found that both sides agreed. In the process of cooperation between designers and printmakers, there is no concept of "obedience". The key is to look at the product effect. Whether it is good or bad cannot be explained by obedience and disobedience. The relationship between the two is originally a cooperative relationship. The only difference between designers and printmakers is the problem of upstream and downstream links.
"Sometimes an experienced printmaker may have a higher status than a designer, which is often the case abroad, but in the case of a press conference, the printmaker will take a step back. Give designers more space. " A senior printmaker said. People often refer to successful designers as "masters". The term "tailor" is more reserved for printmakers. However, Mr Pierre Cardin can call himself a tailor. Then there is nothing wrong with printmakers being tailors who know how to design.
The difference between design and typesetting. The dialogue and cooperation between typesetters and designers may be easily explained by definition, but in the actual enterprise operation and production process, the two often penetrate each other in function.
An excellent designer must be able to achieve something in form, because form directly affects the appearance of clothing; Similarly, an excellent printmaker must have his own unique views in the field of design. A good printmaker must be experienced, and experience may not make him an excellent printmaker. There is a big difference between pattern design and style design. Style design is an open mind, trying to express the designer's unique ideas, while pattern design can be accurate to every millimeter, which is a kind of beauty described by data. For the data of the same part, some designers will choose 2 and some designers will choose 3, and one of them will definitely make the clothes more beautiful and comfortable.
Another example is the tight-fitting effect. It is generally believed that adding 4cm is the most basic breathing volume, but this is not absolute. The human body is rich in fat and elastic. The fluctuation of one or two millimeters will not affect the breathing, but it will have a great influence on the shape. Similarly, if the rotator cuff is matched, the high sleeve mountain looks tight, but it is uncomfortable if it is too high. Then there must be a limit value, and the effect that cannot be achieved will be compensated by other means. The two are almost invisible in appearance, but the wearer is the most experienced. This is the inspiration of the printmaker.
Typewriters are not fully qualified for a set of skills.
Mr. Hou, the technical director of Taiping Bird Women's Wear Department, said: "The technique is something that everyone knows, and the gold content of the technique is not great. How to improve the accuracy and inclusiveness of typesetting is a standard to measure whether a typesetter is excellent. " Grasping accuracy and inclusiveness is a comprehensive evaluation of a typist's aesthetic spirituality. From this perspective, the template is not a simple combination of lines, but also needs "design". Such a typist must have the attributes of a designer to be competent. Therefore, it is not an exaggeration to call a typist a tailor. However, they are not designers after all, and excellent designers will have unique views on layout. At China International Fashion Week in 2003, when we interviewed models, we would ask them about their experiences and their comments on the clothes they performed. What we often hear is the evaluation of the beauty, fashion and exquisiteness of the design, but when the release of Wang Yutao, the chief designer of Baixian Duoge, ended, the model's evaluation was that "his clothes are not dazzling, but they are very comfortable to wear."
In a later interview, we learned that he personally completed all the costume designs for the Wang Yutao press conference. As a designer, personally completing the design of the version is of course the most perfect expression of design ideas.
As for "comfort", designer Wang Yutao himself explained: First of all, I have experience in typesetting, and secondly, I have spirituality in typesetting.
As a designer, Wang Yutao doesn't mind being called "tailor", because in his view, plate making and design also need inspiration. Wang Yutao began to contact clothing at the age of 15, and never gave up the research on patterns in the next ten years. He said: "Without enough experience, it is impossible to become an excellent printmaker. The experience of printmaking is accumulated in practice again and again. Typing is the process of constantly demonstrating theory. For example, if the teacher says' 1+2 = 3', then we can find that there are many ways to get the result of 3 through continuous practice, and after trying these, we think1+2 is the easiest. Then the 1+2 we use at this time is absolutely different from the original 1+2. "
Wang Yutao said that when it comes to the technical theory of typesetting, I am no different from others, but if you give me a pair of scissors and a piece of cloth, my clothes will be more comfortable than others. I think it's because I am also spiritual in this respect.
Why do high-paying typists get high salaries?
In our impression, typists are not famous enough to measure their performance. Whether their status in the enterprise will be the same as their reputation, but when the reporter investigated the treatment of typists, he found that the importance of typists has been correctly treated by business operators, which can be reflected in their wages.
According to Hong Kong Shu Lei (Technology) Clothing Company, in Hong Kong, the average printer's salary is about 8,000 yuan, while the technical director can get 9,000 ~110,000 yuan, and the technical director of a larger brand can get1.6,000 ~1.8,000 yuan.
According to our incomplete statistical survey, in the developed areas of clothing industry, the salary of slightly experienced printmakers is generally not less than 5000 yuan, and it is not unusual for technical directors to earn tens of thousands of yuan a month. In Chengdu, Nanjing and other non-clothing industrial centers, printmakers with better skills can also get 3000~4000 yuan. In Guangdong, printmakers also participate in profit commission.
At first, the salary of typists will be slightly lower than that of designers, but the salary of typists will be proportional to the time and experience at a certain stage. Typewriter is like an old Chinese doctor. The older he gets, the more valuable he is. Design needs creativity and inspiration. For fashion designers, to a certain extent, being younger may have an advantage. In enterprise recruitment, it is often seen that the age requirement for designers is no more than 35 years old. Although there is no age limit for typists, several years of work experience is one of the most basic requirements.
In a recent questionnaire survey conducted by our newspaper in cooperation with the Hong Kong Polytechnic University, there was a question: Do you think the company would be most interested in the work experience of typists? In nearly 30 questionnaires collected by our reporter in Beijing. The vast majority chose 4-5 years. It seems that the printmaker himself is well aware of the significance of the accumulation of experience to his career.
Plate making is a highly technical job, which contains many trivial and complicated details. Understand the human body structure, accurately grasp the size and position, etc. Both need rich experience and a high degree of flexibility, and flexible handling of plate types is supported by skilled technology and rich experience. Ni Zhibin, technical director of Beijing Taweiou Clothing Company, gave an example: For example, the shoulder slope design of ordinary men's shoulder pads is 45. The neutral men's wear emphasizes aesthetic feeling, and its shoulder slope design is 35. In that case, it is time to test the standard of printmakers, and achieve the best combination of beauty and comfort by adjusting the slope of shoulders. At this time, the experience that can help printmakers is very important. For another example, as we mentioned earlier, the first ski suit in China was divided into 78 pieces. The division of these 78 blocks should follow the feeling of human muscles, and the version made should be visually beautiful and smooth, and also meet the needs of human movement. Imagine: without rich experience in plate making, I am afraid it is difficult to complete it well.
Therefore, experience is an important weight to measure printmakers. Shang Fuhai, general manager of Beijing Taweiou Clothing Company, said with a smile: "The printmaker is like an old Chinese doctor. The older you get, the more valuable you are. " But please note that this "old" does not refer to age, but to real and genuine experience accumulation; Of course, it doesn't mean how long you have been engaged, but it means out-and-out professional skills and literacy.
What is the meaning of high salary?
The monthly salary of a printmaker ranges from 3,500 yuan to10,000 yuan, and a Guangdong enterprise actually offered a high salary of 400,000 yuan. These examples can't help but make us think: what is the value of high-paying printmakers? Mr. Shang Fuhai, who got an annual salary of 80,000 yuan as early as 200 1, was promoted to technical director within half a month of his employment, because he boldly innovated the traditional tennis skirt version in Li Ning Company, and added a chest lifting amount (that is, chest saving) to the traditional tennis skirt version, which made the tennis skirt more slim and three-dimensional and highlighted the female curve. At that time, this idea was immediately opposed by everyone, because in everyone's concept, sportswear was based on comfort, but when everyone saw that tennis skirts with chests were more beautiful and did not affect their comfort at all, they naturally believed in such innovations.
There is a lack of senior garment plate-making talents in China, so it is not easy for enterprises to find a good plate-making division that suits them. Different brands have different customer groups and clothing styles. Therefore, enterprises have different requirements for plate making, and plate-making designers need a good understanding of the brand personality characteristics of enterprises in order to be used by enterprises and serve brands.
Mr. Hou, technical director of women's clothing department of Ningbo Taiping Bird Group, has worked in Taiping Bird for 7 or 8 years, and his current annual salary is close to 200,000. He is now involved in the overall operation of the brand as a middle-level company. Teacher Hou said that at present, most brands and enterprises are designers and marketing directors, and they are more involved in company planning, and rarely participate in brand operation from a technical perspective as printmakers. Some enterprises may give typists a good salary, but they will not let him participate in planning more, and the space for typists is limited.
Mr. Hou believes that typists should also be more involved in the operation and operation of enterprises. The typists' work itself is closely related to the products and involves more. Knowing more about the company will make you more handy in specific work. Moreover, thinking hard in the process of participation is also a learning process, which is conducive to the improvement of comprehensive quality and the development of the company. Often such professional advice is very important. At present, the competition among major brands has included the competition of versions. After consumers see it, it is the version of the clothing that determines the sales rate of a certain clothing. Wearing beautiful clothes is uncomfortable, and consumers will not pay the bill.
From the point of view of a typist, Mr. Hou feels that his salary is very high, but it is not surprising if he considers the scope of his duties. Obviously, in addition to his unique skills, high comprehensive quality and strong comprehensive ability are one of the important reasons for the high salary of high-paying printmakers.
This is why some people have worked in the ordinary level of "clothing cutting" 10 years, 20 years, or even a lifetime salary is not high, while some people can become senior plate makers with high salaries through several years of hard work. In this sense, high salary is not the same as old age.
I hope it helps you!