Three-dimensional garment cutting is a popular name. Its formal scientific name is clothing three-dimensional structure design, which is one of the methods of clothing structure design. It is not bound by any number, but needs a sense of art. Then, let's give me an explanation and share the basic knowledge of garment cutting. Welcome to read and browse.

Basic knowledge of garment cutting: 1 prototype three-dimensional cutting

(1) Prototype is the most basic and simple pattern, which is the basis of all styles. Stereo cutting prototype is the basis of human body stereo cutting. The operation steps are as follows:

1. Cover the determined front center line, bust line and baseline cloth on the platform, which are consistent with the lines with the same name on the platform, and fix them on the front center and point B with pins, P ..

2. Push the excess amount below the bust line to point B.P to form a waist saving amount and fix it with a pin. At the same time, determine the position of the side seam and fix it.

3. Push the allowance above the bust line to the shoulder, cut the neckline, and eliminate the drag at the neckline. According to the basic lines of neckline, shoulder and armhole, shadow lines are made on the fabric.

4. The operation method of the back membrane is the same as that of the front membrane.

(2) The width and volume design of the prototype: There are two main methods:

1. Push method: Before the operation, push out a certain amount of looseness at the chest width and temporarily fix it with a pin.

2. Placement method: After the three-dimensional cutting is completed, the slack is directly added to the side seam.

3. Body correction: Because of the large technical difficulty angle of three-dimensional cutting, it is difficult to ensure the accuracy of the cutting part. Therefore, clothes with symmetrical left and right sides often only make the right body, and the left body is cut according to the right body, so it is necessary to correct the body;

(1) Remove the cloth sample from the platform, put it on the platform and iron it with an iron;

(2) redraw the collar socket, armhole arc, side seam, shoulder seam, etc. Use a proofing ruler;

(3) Check whether the relevant parts are reasonable, and cut the left body according to the right body;

(4) Connect the left and right clothes bodies with hand needles and fix them on the platform again. All relevant parts, such as pockets and buttons, are cut according to the actual samples and put into the corresponding parts to check whether the overall shape of the clothing is perfect.

Wonderful content

Application of economy in three-dimensional cutting;

In the three-dimensional cutting of the prototype, we can see that the shape of the body presents two basic States: loose and fit. Loose performance is that the fabric is isolated from the human body, forming a certain space; Fit is the fit between fabric and human body, showing a fit state, and the key to this fit state lies in economic use.

1, the concept and significance of province

Economy is a way to deal with the surplus in garment production. Saving comes from putting two-dimensional cloth on three-dimensional human body. Due to the ups and downs of the human body, the decreasing proportion of girth, the size of looseness and the low fit, fabrics are in a loose state in many parts of the human body. Treating these loose quantities in an intensive form will form the concept of saving, which will make the clothing modeling move from the traditional plane modeling to the real three-dimensional modeling.

2. Intra-provincial transfer and its application

The transfer of dart is the expansion of the application of dart technology, which makes the design of body-fitted clothing diversified. The principle of dart transfer in stereo cutting actually follows the principle of bump ray, that is, dart transfer centered on bump. For example, the design around the chest height can attract countless darts. In addition to the most basic chest and waist province, shoulder province, armhole province, neckline province, front center province, underarm province and so on. , the protruding points around, that is, the chest high point, the rest of the missing parts.

3. Three-dimensional clipping operation of several provincial shapes

(1) waist saving-this is the most basic form of saving shape, and all the excess is transferred below the bust point.

(2) Shoulder province+front center province-this is to divide the total allowance into two parts and transfer them to the design position respectively, which is the same concept as the decomposition and transfer of the province in the plane structure.

(3) herringbone province-the province is herringbone, hence the name. Different from the symmetrical characteristics of the above provinces, the herringbone province is asymmetric and has the characteristics of mother-child province. Such provinces also include Y type and T type.

4. province and segmentation in stereo cutting

Segmentation is another cutting technique that saves time. When both provinces point to the high point of the chest, we can connect the two provinces to form a dividing line, which is the structural form of connecting the provinces into seams in the plane structure. The application of segmentation technology adds another means of expression to the structural design of fit clothing, and also enriches the language of clothing design.

(1) Vertical dividing line —— The shoulder provinces and the chest and waist provinces are combined to form a vertical dividing line, such as the classic princess line. In addition, neckline province and waist province, armhole province and waist province are vertically divided.

(2) Horizontal division-it is mainly manifested as a horizontal or nearly horizontal division line, such as the armhole province is connected with the former central province to form a horizontal division, the scapular province is transferred to the armhole, and the two provinces are connected to form a horizontal division of the back piece.

(3) Oblique division-a form of horizontal division and vertical division, and it is asymmetrical division. For example, the shoulder dart of the right garment body and the side seam dart of the left garment body are connected to form an oblique division line running through the garment body.

(4) Straight line segmentation and curve segmentation —— In the design of clothing knot segmentation, the lines formed are mainly in two basic forms: straight line segmentation and curve segmentation, and the rest are variations on this basis. Straight line segmentation is the basic form of segmentation, and curve segmentation enriches the design of segmentation, but it should be noted that the greater the curvature, the greater the technical difficulty.

(5) Operation requirements-No matter which method or form, its operation method is the same. Firstly, the segmentation position is determined on the platform, and marked with the representation line, and then the segmentation is completed according to the operation methods and steps of the three-dimensional cutting prototype.

The art of pleating in three-dimensional cutting

Pleating is a design language widely used in fashion design, which makes clothing more meaningful and vivid, especially in the design of young women's clothing. Pleats are divided into regular pleats and free pleats.

1 Regular pleats-mainly reflected in the regularity between pleats, such as the same or similar size, interval and length of pleats. Regular pleats show a mature, dignified, lively and steady style.

2 Free pleats-Contrary to regular pleats, free pleats show a sense of randomness, a sense of randomness in the size and interval of pleats, and a lively, generous, comfortable and unrestrained clothing style.

3 Operation requirements-Because three-dimensional cutting is different from plane cutting, the amount of material can be accurately calculated, so we should first leave enough margin on the cutting of cloth, and then set the pleat amount as needed and mark it with a pen.

Explain the basic knowledge of garment cutting 2 1, solid line

In clothing drawing, we often see thick and thin solid lines. The width of thick solid lines is generally around 0.9- 1mm, and the width of thin solid lines is generally around 0.3 mm ... So, what do these solid lines mean?

Thick solid lines are generally used to indicate the outline of clothing and clothing parts.

The thin solid line is generally the basic line of the pattern structure, which is used to indicate the boundary between dimension line and size and the leading line.

Step 2 dash

In clothing drawing, we often see thick and thin dotted lines. The width of the thick dashed line is generally about 0.9- 1mm, and the width of the thin dashed line is generally about 0.3 mm So, what do these dashed lines mean?

Thick dotted lines are generally used to represent the back contour of clothing.

The thin dotted line is generally used to indicate the sewing thread of clothing.

3. Dot and draw lines

The dotted line is generally about 0.9mm wide, which is used to represent the folding line of clothes.

4. Isometric line

The function of bisector is to divide line segments into equal proportions within a certain distance.

5. Right angle line

The right angle line is actually the same as the literal meaning we understand. Its function is to show that the relationship between the two parts in the diagram is vertical.

6. Overlapping lines

The function of overlapping lines is to show that they are overlapping.

7. Equivalent number

An equal sign means that the number between them is equal.

8. Shrinking seams

This line is used to indicate the shrinkage rate of cloth when sewing.

9. Guilong Line

This line represents the deformation of a certain part of the clothes.

10, dial the line.

To open a thread is to stretch and deform a certain part of a garment.

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