Music, movies, philosophy, painting, design and so on, all of which can be described, seem to be included in the world of perfume. Of course, it also includes literature.
Last year, the Edition perfume brand founded by Timothy Han, a London designer, launched three perfumes with different flavors named after literary books.
They are On the Road by American writer Jack Kerouac, Here She Comes by French writer simone de beauvoir and The Fall of Angels by Japanese writer Yukio Mishima.
As soon as the perfume was launched, it was discussed on the internet, and everyone unanimously expressed their desire to know what these perfumes taste like.
Actually, it's not just Edition perfume. Well, Miller Harris, a British perfume brand with strong literary attributes, is about to open a shop in Shanghai New World. Violet Ida is the best example, inspired by the novel Brighton Hard Candy by British writer graham greene, which is full of contrast and nostalgia.
How to combine? It can be said that Violeda has perfectly sniffed out the heroine Ida Arnold in the novel. The slightly sour tone of bergamot is mixed with the earthy smell of carrot seeds, and the two smells are combined to create a metallic texture and a natural earthy smell. Iris has a gorgeous pink texture, giving a gentle impression, while almond fragrance in the sun gives a sweet feeling. The vanilla liquid amber with the tail tone gives off a warm and comfortable light, just like Ida's arms.
Speaking of it, the combination of literature and perfume is nothing new. The expression of the above perfume is even just the tip of the iceberg. Therefore, in order to show the infinite possibilities of literature and perfume, today we will talk about what kind of literary stories are contained in the perfume world.
Although they belong to different branches of art, perfume and literature are like two big trees growing side by side. Dense branches and roots have been intertwined for a long time, and they refer to each other or are the source of inspiration.
One of the best examples is the novel Perfume: A Murderer's Story published by the German novelist Sueskind in 1985. Perfume is not only the key driving force of the plot, but also the internal driving force of the protagonist Greenough Ye's role development.
After more than a century's development, modern perfume has paid more attention to "expressing individuality" from its initial practicality to the harmony of fragrance and tone similar to music, the scene reconstruction similar to painting and the three-tone structure similar to narration.
This expression is not only the last "finishing touch" for consumers to use fragrance outside their clothes, but also the perfumers—especially those with independent perfume brands—are increasingly writing their own signature works with unique "author marks": besides drawing inspiration from their own lives and memories, the authors, roles, literary features and even a simple literary title of a certain era have also brought continuous inspiration to perfumers.
Mrs butterfly is madly in love with her heart.
Whether recalling yesterday's old love, commemorating the historical moment or recording the present beauty, Guerlain perfume always tells a touching story from time to time between the gorgeous bottle and the dreamy fragrance, which leads to "Jicky", "Vol de Nuit" and "L'Heure Bleue".
However, among all the classic perfumes of Guerlain, the most famous one related to literature is "Madame Butterfly". The name Mitsuko comes from the heroine Mitsuko in the best-selling novel War published by French novelist Claude Farrell in 1909 (Japanese can be called Mitsuko, and Mistouko is its French transliteration).
The novel took place during the Russo-Japanese War 1904- 1905. Mitsuko, the wife of Japanese Navy Colonel Laiban, fell in love with the handsome British officer Herbert Ferguson in Japan. Although he loves his wife, his husband wants to satisfy his real two of a kind. Herbert hides his feelings out of ethics, and his wife wanders between loyalty to her husband and enthusiasm for her lover. ...
Subsequently, the war ended in the victory of the Japanese army, which also took the lives of her husband and lover. In shock and grief, Mitsuko bid farewell to her past life and mourned her late husband at the Kyoto Shrine. The struggle between loyalty and passion can no longer ripple in the stagnant heart.
Because the early verification materials were not rigorous and all took place in Japan, Mitsuko's Chinese translation used the name of Puccini's opera Madame Butterfly. Madame Butterfly tells the story of a geisha butterfly who fell in love with Pinkerton, a US military officer visiting Japan, and was abandoned without knowing it. The faithful butterfly refused the courtship of the rich children and waited for Pinkerton to come back. Finally, she saw the face of a coward playing with love and stabbed herself to death in order not to humiliate her dignity.
Although the name "Madame Butterfly" is a mistake, it is still beautiful in Mistouko, because both Mitsuko and Butterfly are very suitable for their temperament: bright and subtle, mysterious and bitter, and their true colors are revealed.
The bright one is lemon. The implication and shyness of peaches and irises largely suppressed the unrestrained of roses and jasmine. Animal spices such as Long Xianxiang and musk are mysterious, and the bitter taste comes from the mixture of hot and cold medicines of cinnamon, patchouli and oak moss. The music of * * * is endless, like an elegy. In order to echo the fragrance, Mrs. Butterfly's bottle cap also adopts an "inverted heart" design, and the curling style of the bottle shoulder is also very oriental.
In contrast, another literary perfume "Chamade" of Guerlain is slightly extraordinary. The name of perfume comes from the novel of the same name by French woman writer Sagan, which is translated as "frenzy" in Chinese. It tells the story that young Lucille lived a lazy life but had no passion under the care of her old lover Charles until she met young Antoine. The fire of love burns on two young people. They are madly in love, leaving their lovers and desperate to be together. After the passion and madness, due to the embarrassment and triviality of life, Lucile returned to Charles.
Passionate Love is a duet between hyacinthus orientalis and Rose. The former is green and sharp, and the latter is full of purples, just like desperate blindness in love; In order to strengthen the characteristics of these two flowers, the perfumer Jean-Paul Guerlain used green but extremely bitter white rosin and strong and aggressive aldehyde fragrance. As the Chinese version of the novel says, "What is autumn after warm spring and hot summer?" Even bleak and cold can't accurately describe the disappointment and loneliness after love.
Perhaps only the bottle of "passionate love" can best illustrate the atmosphere of this novel and perfume: an inverted multi-heart bottle seems to be beating violently, and the cork on it is as sharp as a spear and has pierced it.
The rulers were sent from deep places.
De profundis, from the Bible Psalm 1 30, the complete original text is De profundis clamavi ad te Domine, Chinese translation: Lord, I call on you from the depths. But what makes De Proffen Des known to more people is the long prose letter written by Wilde, a British Victorian wit, in prison.
Oscar Wilde is a playwright, novelist and poet, a rare wizard, born in a prominent Irish family. However, since he met Alfred Douglas (nicknamed "Percy"), a noble son, at 189 1, he was sentenced for "having an obscene act with other men" and was finally arrested and imprisoned.
During his two years in Reading Prison, Wilde experienced multiple blows, such as the loss of his mother, bankruptcy and divorce, but his lover Percy never said a word, let alone visited him in person. In despair, expectation and love-hate, Wilde wrote a long letter, detailing the details of his and Percy's life, denouncing each other's extravagance, disloyalty and clingy torture, destroying his life and creation, and determined to forgive each other completely, trying to break off the relationship completely, but after he was released from prison, he proposed to mend fences.
The second half of the long letter is Wilde's introspection. He made a detailed anatomical analysis of his personality and life choices, and made a clean breast of beauty and ugliness. He also spent a long time thinking and insight into art, religion and human nature. This letter, like all Wilde's previous works, is gorgeous and sincere, making people cry and angry.
Lu Dan's creative motivation is unknown, of course, but the purple of the same kind in the Abyss Letters can still be interpreted wonderfully: on the one hand, purple was once the exclusive color of the royal family and the pope in ancient western countries, and it was a symbol of nobility and dignity; On the other hand, in the modern west, after the "Purple Panic" in McCarthyism in 1950s, purple first became the symbol of homosexuality stigma, and then became the proud color of anti-stigma with the affirmative movement.
If we leave aside the reference behind this perfume, the "Abyss Letter" is also an atypical one from Lu Dan, without the brand's iconic sense of heaviness, and even lacking the consistent grand drama tension of Lu Dan. What is surprising is not the persistence of the "Abyss Letter" for 6 or 7 hours, nor its unconventional fragrance combination.
All the charm of Abyss Letter is contained in its delicacy, such as a little fragrance when the spring flower shape is about to break ground: in a relatively linear structure, the cool and slightly camphor-scented chrysanthemum is the main theme, realistic and always runs through the perfume; In the process of gradual emission, the soft pink fragrance of violet is obvious in the middle section, and then it becomes an abstract floral fragrance, which connects chrysanthemum with the clean, moist and low earthy taste in the back section; The fragrance and aldehyde of oriental elements exist only to modify the overall atmosphere, creating a faint texture and metallic color, which is hidden from time to time.
Drunk dreams make a book.
In addition to the perfume mentioned above, there are actually many perfumes closely related to literature:
1, MILLERHARRIS, a perfume brand made in Britain, Scherzo &；; TENDER's two perfumes were inspired by Fitzgerald's Tender is the Night, and SCHERZO was created by French perfumer MATHIEUNARDIN. The love, romance and light contained in the book are displayed by mixing blood orange, orange and rose with patchouli, vanilla and Udwood. Gentleness is a slightly dark floral perfume. BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR, a perfumer, shows the dark side of human nature with tulips in black ink, peony flowers and a little leather. The two perfumes are independent and intimate expressions, exploring the perceptual journey between light and darkness, day and night, and light and shadow.
3.CB I hate perfume. Christopher Brosius, the founder and perfumer of new york independent perfume brand, devoted himself to reading. The corresponding perfume has a room with a view (a room with a view, taken from the novel of the same name by the British writer E.M. Foster, and the smell of earth, grass and violets is like Florence in the novel), and in the library (the smell of books, paper and ink).
4. Swedish independent perfume brand Byredo includes Baudelaire (named after French poet Baudelaire, leather, juniper and incense burning) and Seven Veils (taken from the biblical story and the famous "Dance of Seven Veils" in Wilde's play Salome).
5. The independent French perfume brand Histoires de Parfums launched 1740 Marquise de Sade (author of The Crime of Love, Sodom 120 Days, Eternal Flowers and Leather) and 1804 george sand (French woman writer, Chopin's). Pineapple, Pogostemon cablin and vanilla), 1828 jules verne (French science fiction writer, author of Two Wan Li under the Sea, Around the World in 80 Days and Ocean Citrus Melody), 1899 Hemingway (Hemingway, Juniper, Cinnamon, Vanilla and Black Pepper).
6. Roja Dove, a French perfume brand, has a midsummer night's dream (taken from Shakespeare's play of the same name)
7. The French perfume brand Jardins d'Ecrivains owns Orlando (taken from the novel of British writer Adeline Virginia Woolf,
Written by JC