Keywords: The Book of Songs? Clothing? Category? Hierarchical differentiation? rational knowledge
"Once"? Yu Fuzhi said: "Ancient people lived in caves and lived in the wild, with fur and skin." This is a true portrayal of the life of our ancestors. In the era of the Book of Songs, people have begun to widely use fabrics made of kudzu, hemp, silk and fur fabrics, and ordinary people wear kudzu clothes. Nan Zhou? "He said," Ge Zhi's kindness is great, and it is applied to the bells and drums, not Momo. Okay, okay, okay, okay. "Women are mostly in rags and rags. The clothes of the aristocratic class in different occasions and seasons are bright, exquisite and gorgeous. At the funeral, "embroidered silk clothes, embroidered clothes", "embroidered mysterious clothes" and "embroidered clothes" at the sacrifice. When offering sacrifices to nobles, you should wear elephant clothes, be embarrassed and be veiled. "The grade difference of this kind of clothing not only reflects the low level of social production at that time, but also reflects the social class differentiation brought about by political status. Therefore, from the perspective of clothing in the Book of Songs, we can vividly and delicately understand the early history and more aspects of our ancestors' lives from another angle, thus forming a rational understanding that transcends inertial thinking: history develops gradually, from low to high, from imperfect to perfect.
First, the costumes in The Book of Songs
Clothing is an important part of clothing. Although there are only more than 30 works about costumes in The Book of Songs, they are enough to open a door for us to understand ancient costumes. According to the different functions of clothing, it can be divided into three categories: head clothing, shin clothing and foot clothing:
(1) the first one
The headdress is a hat. There are three kinds of headdresses in ancient times: crown, crown and cloak. Crown is the general name of crown and cloak. In the Book of Songs, there are "dancing around Russia, dancing repeatedly", "seeing the plain crown" and "wearing silk clothes and carrying it." It can be seen that "Yang" often appears in the Book of Songs, which is used to describe the nobleness of aristocratic costumes. So it is a more noble crown, with skin and title. Pige is made of white deerskin, with a spire, similar to the melon skin hat of later generations. The stitching of deerskin will be decorated with sparkling jade, which looks like stars. What about Feng Wei? "Joe said," that's like a star. Juege is a kind of red and black flat-topped hat, which is worn when offering sacrifices. In fact, the crown is closely related to the crown ceremony of the Zhou Dynasty. At the age of 20, the aristocratic children of the Zhou Dynasty performed a "crown ceremony" in the ancestral hall, followed by a garb crown, a fur hat and a title, and the cloth crown was made of black linen. Therefore, most crowns worn by ordinary people are cloth crowns. The difference between the crown and the neck is that there is an extra crown, and small ribbons are tied at both ends of the neck to play a fixed role. A jade is hung on each end of the neck with a silk rope, called Tang, also known as "plug ear", then? "Qi 'ao" says: "Full of beautiful jade". In fact, Shu Ren's headdress is different from the ruling stage. They were crowned according to power and financial resources, so they could only wear a towel, that is, a scarf. Cai Yong's "arbitrary" is "humble deacon in ancient times, convinced by people without crowns". Zheng Feng? Out of the east gate, he said "take clothes and towels".
(2) shin clothes.
The so-called shin clothes are pants worn on the calf. The ancients wrapped a piece of cloth on the calf, which is called evil or evil. Cai Yong said: "The evil amplitude is below", and Zheng Xuan noted: "The evil amplitude is good; The strength of the tibia is self-sufficient to the knee, so it is down. " By extension, clothes, when clothes were put together in ancient times, clothes could only refer to tops, the clothes below were called petticoats, and the clothes above were called petticoats. "Hurricane? Green: Huang Shang in Green, Qi Feng? "Unknown East" said: "Clothes are upside down", but clothes are not pants but skirts. In ancient times, both men and women wore skirts. After the Warring States period, many clothes were called deep clothes, which were divided into straight skirts or curved skirts according to the shape of clothes. Later, straight skirts gradually became the mainstream.
The differentiation of shin clothing between civilians and nobles is obvious. Civilians are "clothed", nobles are "anxious, and their food is also available", and civilians are "anxious" and "anxious". Fur made of fur and robes made of linen are warm clothes. Qin Feng? "Shepherd" said: "Shepherd is like ointment, and there is an obsidian at sunrise", "Xiaoya? "Du Du Ren" said: "Bi Du Du Ren, foxes and furs are all yellow!" It can be seen that the ancients wore fur, so they should add a smock when receiving guests. This is called a smock, otherwise it will be considered disrespectful. Compared with this, robes should be more convenient and popular, with new cotton and old wool in them. Therefore, there are rich and poor people who wear robes and furs, but they are all warm clothes and are indispensable. Qin Feng? Naked ""Naked? Robe with my son. "Underwear is indispensable today, but in the era of the Book of Songs, its development is immature and slow, but it has been realized." I can't say that I have no clothes to wear and have the same interests as my son. It's a shame to be covered by him. It's a pity to pollute my personal interests and take care of my clothes. The words "Ze", "Yu" and "Private" in The Book of Songs all refer to underwear, but they are not perfect, just close-fitting clothes, and sometimes they don't even play a role in hiding shame. Therefore, the appearance of deep clothes is to make up for this function, and the curve skirt is to make up for the loss of underwear. The underwear gradually developed later became the prototype of Japan's "You" and the embodiment of a long history and culture. "Hurricane? "A gentleman grows old together" says: "Embarrassed, embarrassed", "elegant? Han Yi said: "The mystery is red. ". "Daya？ "Kun Min" said: "There is a vacancy in the post of Kun". In ancient times, people would wear formal dresses during sacrifices, pilgrimages or major events. "Kun" is the costume of the emperor and the highest official history, and the "dragon robe" of later generations is the legacy of Kun. Zhu's Biography of Poetry and his sacrificial clothes were carved and painted for Zhailuo's trip, and the colored paintings were also decorative. In order to survive, the ancients created clothes that modern people could not understand emotionally. Although the rich and the poor have different clothes, they are all part of China culture, which is of great historical value to the study of ancient culture, so The Book of Songs also has corresponding historical value.
(3) adequate clothing.
Shuowen said: Clothes are shoes, that is, socks. In ancient times, shoes were called shoes, including Ma Xie and Ge shoes. "Feng Wei? Ge Wei said, "Can it be frosty to correct their disputes? "Visible GeJian is worn in summer, leather sword should be worn in winter, and ordinary sword is made of hemp and Ge, so there is Martin? The pond at the east gate said, "The pond at the east gate can be used for irrigation. ".It means that people in the city outside Dongcheng Gate make straw sandals. Yu also has an alias, Yu. Differentially speaking, the single bottom is surplus, and the bottom is surplus. The ancient people wore straw sandals, which is a kind of straw sandals. Later, straw sandals were developed and spread to Japan. The familiar shoes, after the Warring States period, evolved from verbs to nouns and became a kind of shoes, so there was Xunzi? Correcting the name: "Thick clothes and shoes can support the body", "Historical Records? Stay at Houjia: "An obedient boy, take off his shoes", and the resulting "Zheng people buy shoes".
Second, ornaments.
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The transition from survival to life in ancient times has brought us another visual highlight: the prosperity of ornaments. As an ornament, jewelry adds beauty and color, which is the icing on the cake. Although ancient ornaments are simple, they always have profound meaning. They are also the media to express emotions, convey emotions and communicate with the soul.
(1) jade.
Official hat, bun, waist and wrist are all places where the ancients wore jade, which shows that jade is one of the main objects of the ancients. Shuowen explained: "Jade is also beautiful in stone", and beautiful jade symbolizes nobility, so the ancients have great love for jade since ancient times. Needham said: "The love for jade can be said to be one of the cultural characteristics of China." Jade was widely used for sacrifice, burial and gift in the Zhou Dynasty. Feng Wei? Papaya said, "Give me papaya, and I will reward Qiongju, and I will reward Mutao. Give me a plum and report it to Joan Jiu. " It shows that lovers give gifts to each other and express deep, permanent and unwavering love. "fangs? Han Yi said, "With its introduction, I became king. ".abstinence, Da Gui, jade ritual vessels. The minister took Da Gui to see the king. It can be seen that jade, as an object, carries not only love, but also a symbol of class and rights. "Is there a big tooth?" Tao: "Silver attracts laurel as treasure". Jade, a kind of clean beauty, also represents cleanliness and no stain. So it also represents noble quality, so a gentleman wears jade. ”Daya？ As the saying goes, "white jade is still grindable", satirizing the monarch should be cautious and think twice before acting. Noble women admire beautiful jade to show their beauty. The combination of beautiful jade and beauty has been mutual praise since ancient times. ""jade is like jade. " Meiyu is swaying in the ear, setting off a woman's delicate face. Therefore, jade, as a beautiful and auspicious object, has been applied to all aspects and continues to this day.
(2) Hair accessories
In ancient times, men and women tied their hair, but women decorated their hair with hairpins and pearls, while men wore jade on their hats and curly hair. Compared with men, women's hair accessories are more dominant and become more complex and beautiful in the development of later generations. "Hurricane? In "A Gentleman Visiting the Old", there are a lot of descriptions of the patriotic mother and Mrs. Wei's clothing prosperity. " A gentleman grows old together, with six yoga skills, a bun like a cloud, and a jade like jade. Deputy, Biography of Mao: "Deputy, the jewelry of the Queen Mother, braid it for it". Yi, Shuo Wen: Yi, Eighth Master. Jia, if you put it under the mat, it will shake when you walk. Also known as "walking", there are six periods, so most of them are six yoga. Compared with noble ornaments, ordinary people are mostly "clothes and towels", so headscarves are common headdresses for poor women. This contrast between gorgeous and unpretentious also represents two different kinds of beauty in ancient China: elegant beauty and simple beauty.
In a word, the costume decoration in The Book of Songs provides us with valuable information for understanding ancient Chinese costumes and analyzing the lives of the ancients. These obscure terms also play a constructive role in interpreting the literary talent of The Book of Songs. In this tracing, exploring and analyzing, we have rationally recognized the wisdom of ancient China ancestors in clothing, and also recognized the long course of clothing development. In reading, we are not only saddened by the division brought about by class status.
References:
1 Annotation to the Book of Songs, translated by Cheng Junying, Shanghai Ancient Books Publishing House, 2006.
2 Common Sense of China Ancient Culture, edited by Wang Li, World Book Publishing House 20 12.
3 Research on Ancient Chinese Costume, edited by Shen Congwen, Peking University Publishing House, 20 12.